Pixie Earrings

 These earrings are named after my lovely kitty-cat and beading companion, Pixie. I came up with the design while I was trying to work out new ways to use up some of the two-hole beads in my stash.  As they’re component based, it’s easy to make smaller earrings using either just the rivoli or chaton elements, or bead a bunch of the elements and join them together to make a bracelet or necklace. 

I chose a very smoky, sultry colour scheme for my earrings, but these would look beautiful in pearl tones for a bride or pastel colours for a spring look, or even black and silver to complement a little black dress! If you love this colour scheme, I've listed the bead colours I used at the end.

What you'll need to make this:

A. Size 11 seed beads (2g)
B. 40 half tila beads
C. Size 15 seed beads (3g) (to match A)
D. Size 15 seed beads (3g)
E. 20 quarter tila beads

2 14mm rivolis
2 ss39 chatons (8mm)
ear wires

Anything else? 

Beading thread (I use fireline 0.10mm)
Beading needles (I use Miyuki brand)
Bead mat
Scissors or thread zap
Pliers for opening and closing ear wires

1.     Pick up 1(A),1(B) 10 times and tie in a circle with a double knot. Thread through a few beads until you are exiting a (B), and then thread through the top hole of the (B). 

2.     Pick up 1(B) and thread through the top hole of the next (B) in the circle from step 1. Repeat around the circle, go through the first (B) you added in this step and then through the top hole.

 

3.     Pick up 1(A) and go through the top hole of the next (B) in the circle from step 2. Repeat this around the circle but do not pull tightly yet. Go through the first (A) added in this step, keeping the tension very loose, then add the 14mm Rivoli with the front facing up. Pull your thread tight and reinforce the thread path. Go back through the outer hole of one of the (B) beads.

 

4.     Pick up 4(D), go through the corresponding hole on the next (B) on the front side of the bezel. Repeat a further 9 times all the way around the bezel. Step up by going up the first 2(D) added in this step.

 

5.     Pick up 1(D), go through 2(D),1(B),2(D). Repeat this around the bezel. Adding the 5th bead to the picot in this way makes them more pointy.
Step up by exiting from a (B) bead with your thread coming out towards the front of the bezel.

 

6.     Pick up 3(C). Go though the next (B). Repeat this around the bezel. Step up by exiting from the first (C) added in this step. To make these picots more pointy, we will: skip the middle (C), go through the third (C) and the next (B). Repeat around the bezel; go through 1(C), skip 1(C), go though 1(C),1(B). Thread through to the outer hole of a (B) on the back of the bezel.

 

7.     To make the loop for the earwire: Pick up 7(C), go though the next (B). To reinforce this loop, go down through the lower hole in the (B),1(A),1(B), up through the top hole in the (B) and through the 7(C) again.  Weave in your thread ends and tie off.

 

8.     To make the chaton element: Pick up 10(E) and tie in a circle with a double knot. Go through a few of the (E) beads again, the up to the top hole of the (E) your thread is exiting.

 

9.     Pick up 1(A), go though the next (E) in the ring. Repeat this around the ring and step up by exiting from the first (A) you added in this step.

 

10.  Pick up 3(D), go back though the (A) your  thread was exiting, and thread through 1(E), 1(A).

 

11.  Pick up 2(D), thread down through the first (D) added in step 11, the (A) your thread started from in this step and 1(E),1(A) (this is a modified Right Angle Weave). Repeat this 7 more times (total of 8 times).

 

12.  With your thread exiting the last (A), thread up through the 3^rd (D) added in step 11, pick up 1(D), and thread down through the 1^st (D) on the opposite side. Then thread back through 1(A), 2(D). Before pulling everything tight, pop the chaton into the bezel. This will not hold the chaton in place yet.

 

13.  Pick up 1(C), go through 1(D). Repeat all the way around the bezel. Getting the chaton to sit square in the bezel can be a little tricky, but with a little patience and manipulation, you will get there. Once it’s how you’d like it, pull your thread tight, then reinforce this thread path several times.  Step up to exit from an (A) bead.

 

14.  Pick up 4(D), go through 1(A). Repeat a further 9 times all the way around the bezel. Step up by going up the first 2(D) added in this step.

 

15.  Pick up 1(D), go through 2(D),1(A),2(D). Repeat this around the bezel. Adding the 5^th bead to the picot in this way makes them more pointy.
Step up by exiting from a (A) bead with your thread coming out towards the front of the bezel.

 

16.  Pick up 3(C), go though the next (A). Repeat this around the bezel. There is no need to repeat step 7 on this bezel as it is smaller and the picots are naturally very pointy.

 

17.  Thread through your work so that your thread exits the middle (3^rd) (D) on one of the outer picots. Pick up 2(D), thread through 3(D) on the bottom of larger, rivoli bezel.  Thread through the outer hole on the (B), (A), and the outer hole on the next (B). Thread down though 3(D), pick up 2(D) and down through 3(D) on the corresponding picot of the chaton bezel. Reinforce this thread path, then weave in and trim the thread ends.

 

18.  Add the earwire to the loop at the top and repeat steps 1-18 to make the second earring.

I'd love to see what you make using this design. Please feel free to tag me on Instagram or Facebook @BeadsbyBecs or use the hashtag #beadsbybecs

A. size 11 seed beads - Miyuki California black violet

B. half tila beads - Miyuki dark bronze

C. size 15 seed beads - Miyuki California black violet

D. size 15 seed beads - Miyuki matte metallic khaki iris
E quarter tila beads - Miyuki dark bronze

14mm rivolis - Preciosa venus

ss39 chatons - Preciosa lava 

When life gives you left-handed lemons...

 I'm the kind of person who tries my hardest to always look on the bright side of things, but the last few weeks have been rather challenging. I've dislocated my right shoulder, twice. I'm right handed. Thankfully I've been able to pop my shoulder back into place myself both times, so I've avoided a lot of trauma. But still, I've been keeping my right arm in a sling for the last few weeks.  For those of you who are curious, I'm hypermobile, I managed to dislocate my shoulder by turning over in bed.

Not only do I need my right hand for work and life in general, obviously, I need it to bead! My best beading friend, the fabulous editor of Bead and Jewellery magazine, Vicky Roberts asks me to test-bead and proof read a lot of her patterns/tutorials, and when I told her I'd dislocated my shoulder, we agreed I should learn to bead left handed. I think she was actually joking, as she was rather stunned when later that day I sent her a picture of a bezelled cushion stone. I'm sorry I can't share that picture with you, but it's for a top-secret project. 

Instead, here's a piece of modified right angle weave I've done left-handed. This will make up part of the chain part of a necklace designed by Heather Kingsley-Heath - the design is called Katia. I'll blog about it once I've finished it. 

It has made me think though, about how easily I adapted to beading with my left hand. Obviously, I was slower, my tension wasn't quite as tight, but that's not necessarily a bad thing as my usual beading tension can only be designed as fierce! With my right arm in a sling, I can hold the beadwork just fine, so it's just like swapping everything over. 

Usually (right handed), I like to bead in an anti-clockwise direction, but left handed, I seem to prefer clockwise. I also feel like I prefer a longer needle in my left hand, but a shorter one in my right, but it may be too soon to tell on that one really. 

It definitely is much easier to bead left handed than it is to write left handed. I've just about got the hang of using a mouse left handed, and typing with just one hand is slow, and involves a lot of proof-reading (I tend to forget capital letters and apostrophes). 

Months ago, I signed up to do a Zoom workshop with Sabine Lippert for her Fields of Gold necklace which is just beautiful. The workshop is tomorrow, and I still have to keep my right arm in a sling. Normally, I'm a speedy beader, but I I'm definitely going to be one of the slower ones tomorrow. At least I have a really good excuse! 

Scintilla Necklace

I think it'd be fair to admit that I'm a nerd, or maybe a geek. I spent nearly 8 years at university studying chemistry, so some of that geekiness inevitably sneaks out into me beading occasionally. This time it's the name of the design that's geeky. Scintillating is something that is sparkly or shining brightly, but it came to my mind because of scintillation counters which measure ionising radiation. I'll just leave a wiki link here before I lose you all! 

Back to the beads! 

These bezels are designed to be sparkly above all else. The crystal bicones make up the majority of the bezel, which is pretty unusual, there are a few seed beads at the back for stability... And then just a chain to turn them into a necklace. 

This bezelled chatons doesn't have to be used in a necklace, nor does it have to be clear crystals - I've made some earrings using this bezel before, and I love them. Check out the picture at the bottom of the page for the earrings. But you could use a row of these bezelled chatons as a bracelet, or add a few here and there throughout some beadwork for some sparkle.  

What you will need to make this: 

A. Size 15  Miyuki seed beads (silver) 2g)

B. 3mm crystal bicones (80)

C. 4mm crystal bicones (89)

D. Size 11 Miyuki seed beads (3g)

E. ss39 (8mm) chatons (10)

F. 30cm of chain + clasp and jump rings

Anything else? 

Bead mat, beading needle (my favourite is Miyuki needles), thread (I strongly recommend fireline for this as there are so many crystals), scissors or a thread zap, pliers for opening and closing jump rings. 

1.    Pick up 1(A),1(B) 8 times (total 16 beads). Go through all of these beads again and tie into a circle. Go through a couple of beads in the circle so that your thread is exiting a (B) bead.

2.    Pick up 1(C), 1(D) and go back through the (C) bead again. Skip the (A) bead in the circle and go through the next (B) in the circle. This adds the bicone as a little fringe.

 

 

3.    Repeat step 2 around the circle adding a total of 8(C) beads. Step up by exiting the (D) bead added in step 2.

4.    Pick up 1(D), pass through the (D) on the tip of the next crystal around on the circle. Repeat this until you have added a total of 8(D) beads and the circle is closed, go through the first (D) bead added in this step. Place your chaton into the centre of the circle, flat side down and pull the thread tight to close the circle.

5.    Pick up 1(D), go through the next 2(D) beads added in step 4. Do not go through any of the (D) beads from step 3. Repeat this three more times until you have added a total of 4(D) beads. Step up by going through the first (D) added in this step.

6.    Pick up 1(A), go through 1(D). Repeat 3 more times until you have added a total of 4(1). Sew through all 8 beads used in this step again to reinforce the thread path, then weave in, tie off and cut your threads. Repeat steps 1-6 until you have 10 bezelled chatons.

7.    With a new length of thread, weave and tie into one chaton and exit from one of (C) beads, facing towards the front of the bezel. Pick up 1(C) and go through a (C) on another bezel from front to back. Pick up 3(D) and go though the (C) on the first bezel. Leave an 8 inch tail thread as we will use this later.

8.    Pick up 1(A) and go through the connecting (C), pick up 1(A) and go through the (C) on the second chaton. Repeat this thread path without adding any beads, then step up by going through the (D) on the back of the (C) bead of the second bezel.

9.    To move across to the correct place to add the next bezelled chaton, we are going to add (D) beads between the (D) beads added in step 3. *Pick up 1(D), go through (D)* Repeat between * 3 times. Step up by going through the (C) bead toward the front of the bezel.

10. Repeat steps 7-9 until all 10 chatons are joined.

11. Move to the correct place to add your loop to connect your chain: *Pick up 1(D), go through (D)* Repeat between * 3 times. Go through the (C) and pick up 7(D). Go back through the (C) to make a loop. Repeat this thread path several times to strengthen it. Weave in, tie off and cut your thread. Repeat this step at the opposite end of your necklace using the tail thread.

12.  Using a jump ring, attach your chain to your (D)bead loops at each end of your necklace. If required, add the claps to your chain using jump-rings. 

I made this pair of earrings using the bezel for this necklace, they work beautifully - I used opal chatons and opal ABx2 bicones for as much sparkle as possible. 

       

      I'd love to see what you make using this design - feel free to tag me in your pictures on Instagram @BeadsByBecs or using the hashtag #BeadsByBecs

Daffodil Necklace Tutorial

Although this necklace sings about spring and daffodils, you don't have to make this in spring colours. Use some classic blacks, gold and silver and you'll have a stunning necklace that looks like stars rather than daffodils!

What will you need to make this necklace:

A. Half tila beads (6 per flower) 

B. Size 11 seed beads 3g

C. Size 15 seed beads 1g

D. ss39 (8mm) chaton (1 per flower)

E. 3mm fire polish beads (2)

F. 4mm bicones (12)

G. Miyuki 6mm sender bugles (8) 

H. Kite bead (2)

I. Length of chain, jump rings and a clasp

Anything else? 

Beading mat, beading needle - I use Miyuki needles, beading thread (I like 4lb fireline, especially as this
project has crystals and bugles in it), scissors or a threadzap, pliers for opening and closing jump rings.

To make the necklace you need three flowers, but these little daffodil flowers (or stars if you make them in different colours) would make fabulous earrings - just thread a jump ring through one of the petals and then attach that to an ear wire. 

1.    Pick up 6(A) and tie into a circle. Go through the first (A) again.

2.    Pick up 1(B), go through the next (A), repeat five more times adding a total of 6 (A) beads. Step up by going through the top (unused) hole in the (A) bead your thread is exiting.

3.    Pick up 2(A), go through the top hole in the next (A) bead. Repeat five more times adding a total of six lots of 2(A) bead. Step up so that your thread is exiting from the top hole of an (A) bead.

4.    Pick up 3(C) beads, go back through the hole in the (A) bead and through the next 2(B) beads. Repeat five more times adding a total of six groups of 3(C) beads. Step up by exiting from the middle (C) bead from the last group added.

5.    Pick up 2(C) beads and go through the middle (C) bead in the next group of 3 around. Repeat five more times adding a total of six groups of 2(C) beads. Keep the thread tension loose and pop the chaton in – pointy side down. Tighten the thread and repeat the thread path to tighten. Step up by working through your beadwork to exit from one of the pairs of 2(B) beads between the half-tilas.

6.    Pick up 3(B), and go through the next 2(B) beads, skipping the (A) bead. Repeat this five more times, adding a total of six groups of 3(B) beads. Step up by exiting from the first (B) bead added at the beginning of this step.

7.    Pick up 3(B), skip 1(B) and go down through the third (B) from step 6. Repeat this five more times, adding a total of six groups of 3(B) beads. Weave in and tie off the threads. Repeat steps 1-7 to make 3  flowers – leaving a long working thread attached to the last flower to construct the rest of the necklace.

8.    With your thread exiting from the middle bead of one petal, pick up 1(E), 1(F), 1(B), 2(F), 1(B), 1(F). Thread back through 1(F), 1(B), 1(F) to form a loop, pick up 1(E) and then go through the middle (B) of one petal on a second flower. Weave through 14 (B) beads on the second flower so that your thread is exiting the middle (B) bead of the next but one petal (see diagram).

9.    Pick up 1(E), 1(F), 1(B), 2(F), 1(B), 1(F). Thread back through 1(F), 1(B), 1(F) to form a loop, pick up 1(E) and then go through the middle (B) of one petal on a third flower. Go back through 1(E), 1(F), 1(B), 1(F), 1(E), the 15(B) beads in the bottom petals of middle flower 1(E), 1(F), 1(B), 1(F), 1(E) and 15(B) in the bottom of the first flower.

10. We will make the loop to add the chain: Pick up 1(B), 1(F), 1(B), 11(C), go back down through 1(B), pick up 1(F), 1(B) and go through the middle (B) on the next petal.

11. Go through 15(B) along the top of the first flower, pick up 1(G), go through the 1(C) in the group of crystals between the flowers, pick up 1(G), go through the middle (B) in the petal on the second flower, opposite. Repeat this to add a pair of (G) beads between the second and third flowers and weave through the petals on the top of the third flower so that your thread is exiting the (B) bead marked with an arrow.

12. We will make the loop to add the chain: Pick up 1(B), 1(F), 1(B), 11(C), go back down through 1(B), pick up 1(F), 1(B) and go through the middle (B) on the next petal. Step up so that your thread is exiting from the (B) bead marked with an arrow.

13. Pick up 1(C), 1(G), 1(C), 1(H)- through the narrow end, 1(C), 1(G), 1(C). Pass through the middle (B) in the top petal of the middle flower. Pick up 1(C), 1(G), 1(C), 1(H)- through the narrow end, 1(C), 1(G), 1(C) and pass through the middle (B) in top petal of the first flower.

14. Make a half-hitch knot and bead back through the middle (B) of the top petal (changing the direction you are beading in) and bead through 6(B) beads, exiting from the (B) before the middle (B) of a petal. Pick up 2(B), go through the bottom hole of the (H) bead, pick up 2(B). Bead through the middle flower to exit from the opposite petal, pick up 2(B), go through the bottom hole of the (H) bead, pick up 2(B) and go through the (B) next to the middle (B) of the petal on the third flower. Weave in and trim your thread ends.

15. Add a length of chain and a clasp to each end of your beadwork. Adding 7.5” of chain on each end should give an necklace approximately 18” in length.

I'd love to see what you make using this design - feel free to tag me in your pictures on Instagram @BeadsByBecs or using the hashtag #BeadsByBecs