Square Dance

The right angle weave family of stitches are without a doubt, my favourite family of stitches to work with. There is such variety possible; it can be both fluid and have wonderful draping properties, or really structural. 

The pattern I'm sharing with you today uses double right angle weave and cubic double right angle weave. "Regular" right angle weave (I'll call it RAW from here on in) is made from groups of four beads, but double right angle weave (DRAW) each group of four beads is surrounded by another group of four beads, which join the units together. 

If you enjoy this pattern, the next one I'm going to share is a bracelet which takes this a little further.

When I first made these earrings, a few years ago now, they got so much attention from my beading friends that I was asked for a tutorial. This tutorial was initially published in Bead and Jewellery Magazine issue 118. 

If this much sparkle isn't your thing, you can replace the crystals with pearls - there's an example of this at the end. 

What you'll need to make this:

Quantities are given first for earrings, then for necklace

A. Size 11 seed beads (2g, 3g)
B. Size 11 seed beads (1g, 2g)
C. Size 11 seed beads (1g, 2g)
D. 4mm Preciosa bicones (18, 24)
Findings - for earrings, 2x wire guardians 2x ear wires
Findings - for necklace, chain of desired length, clasp, 2 x jump rings

Anything else? 

Fireline (I use 0.10mm)
Size 12 beading needle (I use Miyuki brand)
Bead mat
Scissors or thread zap
Pliers for opening and closing jump rings and ear wires

Follow steps 1-17 to make the components, then to turn the components int earrings, follow steps 18-29. To turn them into a necklace, follow steps 20-23.  

1.     On an arm-span length of thread, pick up 4(A), leave a 4-5 inch tail thread, go through all 4 beads again and then through the first bead once more.

 

2.     Pick up 1(B), go through the next (A). Repeat this 3 more times, adding a total of 4(B). Step up by going through the first (B) added this step.

3.     Pick up 4(A) and go through the first (A) added.

 

4.     Pick up 1(B), go through the next (A), repeat 2 more times, adding a total of 3 (B) in this step. Step up by working through your beadwork to exit from the second (B) added in this step.

5.     Repeat steps 3 and 4 but this time step up to a (B) on the side of your beadwork to start a new row.

6.     Pick up 4(A), go through the (B) and the first (A) again to form a ring. Pick up 1(B), go through the next (A), repeat two more times (total of 3(A) added). To step up, go through all the beads in this DRAW unit again until you are exiting the 3rd (B) added in this step.

7.     Pick up 4(A), go through the (B) and the first (A) again to form a ring. Pick up 1(B), go through the next (A), repeat this (total of 2(A) added). Go though the (B) from the side of the DRAW unit in the previous row and then through the next (A) from the current DRAW unit. This will link the two rows together. To step up, go through all the beads in this DRAW unit again until you are exiting the 2nd (B) added in this step.

8.     Pick up 4(A), go through the (B) and the first (A) again to form a ring. Go though the (B) from the side of the DRAW unit in the previous row and the next (A) from the current DRAW unit. This will link the two rows together. Pick up 1(B), go through the next (A), repeat this (total of 2(A) added). To step up, go through all the beads in this DRAW unit again until you are exiting the 2nd (B) added in this step.

9.     Repeat steps 6, 7 and 8 to add a third row of DRAW to create a 3x3 square and step up to exit one of the (B) beads surrounding the middle group of (A) beads.

10.  This step is going to create a double cubic right angle weave (DCRAW)unit in the centre of the DRAW square. Pick up 4(C) go through the (B) and the next (C) to form a ring. Pick up 1(B), go though the next (C). Do this for a total of three times. To step up, go through the (B) in the base, one of the (A) beads in the centre and the next (B)  around.

11.  Pick up 4(C), go through the (B) and the first (C) again to form a ring. Pick up 1(B) and go through the next (C), twice. Go though the (B) from the side of the previous  ‘wall’ of the DCRAW unit, and then the final (C) bead. To step up, go through the (B) in the base, one of the (A) beads in the centre and the next (B)  around.

12.  Repeat step 11 to build the third wall.

13.  Pick up 4(C), go through the (B) and the first (C) again to form a ring. Go through the side (B) of the first wall and the next (C). Pick up 1(B) and go though the next (C). Go through the side (B) of the third wall and the next (C). To step up, work your thread through this unit so it is exiting from the (B) at the top of this wall.

14.  Pick up 4(C), go through 1(B) and the first (C) to form a ring. We will now link the (C) beads to the top of the DCRAW unit. Go though the next (B) on the top edge of the next wall, go through the next (C) bead in the top ring. Repeat twice more until all walls are joined.

15.  Work your way through to one of the side (B) beads on the edge of the DCRAW units, this is where you will start the crystal embellishment.

16.  Pick up 1(D), go though 1(B), 1(A), 1(B), pick up 1(D) and go back through the (B) your thread was exiting from at the start of this step. Step up by working your thread around the DCRAW unit to exit from the (B) on the next corner.

17.  Repeat step 16 to add 2(D) beads on each corner. After adding (D) beads to the last corner, step up by working through the DCRAW unit and through the first (D) bead added in step 16, and out through the (B) bead on the corner. 

18.  Pick up 1(A), 1(B), 1(D), 1(A). Go through the wire guardian, pick up 1(A), g back down through 1(D), 1(B), pick up 1(A) and go down through the (B) on the other corner. Weave in, tie off and cut your thread ends.

19.  Make a second square dance component and add earwires.

20.  The connectors for the necklace are made as follows: Pick up 1(C), 1(B), 1(A), 1(B), 1(C) and go down through the other (B) bead on the corner. Weave through 3(A) beads on the back of the component, then go up through 1(B), 1(C), 1(B) – skip the (A) bead in the centre of the picot – the go back down through 1(B), 1(C), 1(B).

21.  Weave through to the opposite corner and repeat step 20. Create two Square Dance units with connectors on opposite corners

22.  For the third necklace component make a square dance component and add connecters on two adjacent corners.

23.  Link the components together using jump rings. Complete the necklace with  lengths of chain and a clasp. 

I've had a real play with this pattern over the years, you can make a necklace with more than three components, or join them with beadwork rather than jump rings. Likewise, you can have a play about with the beads which you use to embellish the units. In these examples, I've used 4mm firepolish crystals and 4mm pearls. The example with pearls, I've used DRAW to make a beaded chain, rather than adding a metal chain. 

As always, I'd love to see what you make using my designs, please tag me on Facebook or Instagram @BeadsByBecs. 

Pixie Earrings

 These earrings are named after my lovely kitty-cat and beading companion, Pixie. I came up with the design while I was trying to work out new ways to use up some of the two-hole beads in my stash.  As they’re component based, it’s easy to make smaller earrings using either just the rivoli or chaton elements, or bead a bunch of the elements and join them together to make a bracelet or necklace. 

I chose a very smoky, sultry colour scheme for my earrings, but these would look beautiful in pearl tones for a bride or pastel colours for a spring look, or even black and silver to complement a little black dress! If you love this colour scheme, I've listed the bead colours I used at the end.

What you'll need to make this:

A. Size 11 seed beads (2g)
B. 40 half tila beads
C. Size 15 seed beads (3g) (to match A)
D. Size 15 seed beads (3g)
E. 20 quarter tila beads

2 14mm rivolis
2 ss39 chatons (8mm)
ear wires

Anything else? 

Beading thread (I use fireline 0.10mm)
Beading needles (I use Miyuki brand)
Bead mat
Scissors or thread zap
Pliers for opening and closing ear wires

1.     Pick up 1(A),1(B) 10 times and tie in a circle with a double knot. Thread through a few beads until you are exiting a (B), and then thread through the top hole of the (B). 

2.     Pick up 1(B) and thread through the top hole of the next (B) in the circle from step 1. Repeat around the circle, go through the first (B) you added in this step and then through the top hole.

 

3.     Pick up 1(A) and go through the top hole of the next (B) in the circle from step 2. Repeat this around the circle but do not pull tightly yet. Go through the first (A) added in this step, keeping the tension very loose, then add the 14mm Rivoli with the front facing up. Pull your thread tight and reinforce the thread path. Go back through the outer hole of one of the (B) beads.

 

4.     Pick up 4(D), go through the corresponding hole on the next (B) on the front side of the bezel. Repeat a further 9 times all the way around the bezel. Step up by going up the first 2(D) added in this step.

 

5.     Pick up 1(D), go through 2(D),1(B),2(D). Repeat this around the bezel. Adding the 5th bead to the picot in this way makes them more pointy.
Step up by exiting from a (B) bead with your thread coming out towards the front of the bezel.

 

6.     Pick up 3(C). Go though the next (B). Repeat this around the bezel. Step up by exiting from the first (C) added in this step. To make these picots more pointy, we will: skip the middle (C), go through the third (C) and the next (B). Repeat around the bezel; go through 1(C), skip 1(C), go though 1(C),1(B). Thread through to the outer hole of a (B) on the back of the bezel.

 

7.     To make the loop for the earwire: Pick up 7(C), go though the next (B). To reinforce this loop, go down through the lower hole in the (B),1(A),1(B), up through the top hole in the (B) and through the 7(C) again.  Weave in your thread ends and tie off.

 

8.     To make the chaton element: Pick up 10(E) and tie in a circle with a double knot. Go through a few of the (E) beads again, the up to the top hole of the (E) your thread is exiting.

 

9.     Pick up 1(A), go though the next (E) in the ring. Repeat this around the ring and step up by exiting from the first (A) you added in this step.

 

10.  Pick up 3(D), go back though the (A) your  thread was exiting, and thread through 1(E), 1(A).

 

11.  Pick up 2(D), thread down through the first (D) added in step 11, the (A) your thread started from in this step and 1(E),1(A) (this is a modified Right Angle Weave). Repeat this 7 more times (total of 8 times).

 

12.  With your thread exiting the last (A), thread up through the 3^rd (D) added in step 11, pick up 1(D), and thread down through the 1^st (D) on the opposite side. Then thread back through 1(A), 2(D). Before pulling everything tight, pop the chaton into the bezel. This will not hold the chaton in place yet.

 

13.  Pick up 1(C), go through 1(D). Repeat all the way around the bezel. Getting the chaton to sit square in the bezel can be a little tricky, but with a little patience and manipulation, you will get there. Once it’s how you’d like it, pull your thread tight, then reinforce this thread path several times.  Step up to exit from an (A) bead.

 

14.  Pick up 4(D), go through 1(A). Repeat a further 9 times all the way around the bezel. Step up by going up the first 2(D) added in this step.

 

15.  Pick up 1(D), go through 2(D),1(A),2(D). Repeat this around the bezel. Adding the 5^th bead to the picot in this way makes them more pointy.
Step up by exiting from a (A) bead with your thread coming out towards the front of the bezel.

 

16.  Pick up 3(C), go though the next (A). Repeat this around the bezel. There is no need to repeat step 7 on this bezel as it is smaller and the picots are naturally very pointy.

 

17.  Thread through your work so that your thread exits the middle (3^rd) (D) on one of the outer picots. Pick up 2(D), thread through 3(D) on the bottom of larger, rivoli bezel.  Thread through the outer hole on the (B), (A), and the outer hole on the next (B). Thread down though 3(D), pick up 2(D) and down through 3(D) on the corresponding picot of the chaton bezel. Reinforce this thread path, then weave in and trim the thread ends.

 

18.  Add the earwire to the loop at the top and repeat steps 1-18 to make the second earring.

I'd love to see what you make using this design. Please feel free to tag me on Instagram or Facebook @BeadsbyBecs or use the hashtag #beadsbybecs

A. size 11 seed beads - Miyuki California black violet

B. half tila beads - Miyuki dark bronze

C. size 15 seed beads - Miyuki California black violet

D. size 15 seed beads - Miyuki matte metallic khaki iris
E quarter tila beads - Miyuki dark bronze

14mm rivolis - Preciosa venus

ss39 chatons - Preciosa lava